Comments for the Farm Bill Forum

Congressmen Earl Blumenauer (Oregon) and Sam Farr (California)

February 10th, 2007, in Portland, Oregon

This forum highlights the Pacific Northwest’s keen interest in the regional foodshed and how an improved Farm Bill can add value to the many efforts to connect the sources of our food to the people who purchase, prepare and eat it. This legislation has the opportunity to support the creation of public markets—which are permanent facilities dedicated to that gastronomic and economic connection—in addition to the many seasonal farmers markets and other venues that fulfill similar missions.

Defining a Public Market: A daily, indoor, year-round food market that showcases the region’s bounty with merchants representing the area’s diverse and authentic products and people: fresh produce, flowers, meats, seafood, cheese, prepared foods, bakeries, cafes, and multi-lingual education programs all operated by locally owned vendors who reflect the true complexion of the community.

Research into the feasibility of a Portland Public Market clearly indicates the positive impact that public markets can have in supporting retail sales of local products. This includes seasonal fruit and vegetable growers but extends beyond to the omni-seasonal fisheries, cheese makers, beef, pork, poultry, lamb and game producers. Daily, year-round markets also provide enhanced sales opportunities for entrepreneurs focusing on value-added products such as beer, wines, nut spreads and oils, fruit syrups, preserves, and many types of prepared foods found in bakeries, cafes and delicatessens.

The continuum of support for local agriculture extends from U-pick fields and orchards to farm stands, CSAs, Farmers Markets, Public Markets and supermarkets selling locally sourced foods. Each link in this chain is important, and legislation to reform agricultural support should understand how to respond appropriately to the scale and needs of these different venues for producer-direct sales. Smaller producers may rely on seasonal sales on their own property or through temporary markets to augment significantly their profitability. Other, larger operations may find that episodic exposure only one or two days a week is not enough to enhance their bottom lines; they require the urban purchasing power of a permanent facility that could add volume and value to their considerable efforts.

Contrary to popular rhetoric, the Pacific Northwest does not have a true regional cuisine; it’s the cornucopia of world-class ingredients that sets Cascadia apart from other areas of the country. Imagine Tex-Mex or Cajun cooking and you can easily visualize distinct styles of preparation. Not so with foods here. The ingredients alone define our cuisine, a phenomenon that allows for a timelessness of regional products and ever-changing inventions for showcasing them. That’s why federal support for a broad range of the bounty from this area is crucial; this extends from mainstream products (berries, orchard fruits and vegetables) to underdog categories (root vegetables, wild mushrooms and truffles).

Urban Opportunities for Oregon Agriculture: Better Nutrition

The availability of high quality, locally sourced foods will not by itself guarantee improved nutrition. Without culturally specific education programs that tie indigenous ingredients to ethnically familiar preparation techniques, the links will remain tenuous. Vibrant urban Farmers and Public Markets create remarkable opportunities for cooking and nutrition education, but they must go beyond spotlighting local restaurant luminaries to be effective. Ongoing classes that emphasize everyday food culture and preparation for the majority and minority populations should be central to the urban market experience. Market-oriented education programs must expand to include schools, community centers, social service agencies and houses of worship in order to extend the reach and effectiveness of their education programs. From pre-school to the adult homeless, a full range of affordable and practical programs must form the core of the education component.

Urban Opportunities for Oregon Agriculture: Revitalizing Communities

History is on the side of Markets aiding and abetting community development. Portland’s own market history, from its founding in the mid-1800s, was the story of rural food products making their way to the urban center via river, plank road and later by every modern form of transport. Once established, Portland developed a sophisticated network of permanent and temporary markets that connected rural producers with urban consumers, but along the way also sparked the creation of vital market districts. Whether it was Ankeny Square with the New Market and Theater Building (1872), or the ribbon of hundreds of vendors lining SW Yamhill Street (1890s-1930s), or the sea wall Public Market (1933-41), each Public Market in its time clearly defined a part of the city and catalyzed development in the surrounding area. Similarly, the contemporary network of Farmers Markets has contributed to increased commercial and economic activity in nearby businesses, especially on market days, while creating incomparable public spaces where friends, neighbors and visitors all feel comfortable in gathering.

Yes, Portland is blessed by the quality of its regional foods and the appreciative culture that this bounty has spawned. But, the regional food shed can not take this good fortune for granted; threats and challenges abound. Recent changes in land use laws, economic pressures impacting local agriculture, climate change, and current federal support policies that, speaking charitably, go beyond benign neglect all contribute to a fragile equilibrium. Without significant policy changes that acknowledge and fund regional food systems, this food- shed may soon qualify as the agricultural equivalent of an endangered species.

Respectfully,

Ron Paul, Consulting Director
The Historic Portland Public Market Foundation
P. O. Box 511
Portland, Oregon 97207

 
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